LONG POST ALERT! If you’re just looking for a cheatsheet look no further than to the right. But if you want a 7 day itinerary with accommodation suggestions and tips for the journey – read on.
Also check out my post – Driving in Iceland: Tips & Tricks https://www.utmostinkabroad.com/portfolio/driving-in-iceland/
I took 9 days to drive around Iceland, counterclockwise. In hindsight, did I need 9 days… No. I think I could do it in 7 days and not miss a thing.
Traveling Solo and doing a road-trip means no one to share the driving with – so know yourself. If you tire easily, maybe do what I did and do 9 days. But I think 8 days is realistic, even Solo. There would need to be a schedule (so you don’t lose track of time on the Black Sand Beach like I did), but it could be done.
Iceland is an expensive country, everyone knows that, and it is worth every penny, but cutting two days off the trip is a good way to save money.
This Itinerary includes the hotels I recommended in https://www.utmostinkabroad.com/portfolio/hotels-in-iceland-book-now/, as well as towns where I don’t have specific recommendations.
This is a long well researched Post – but the Itinerary up on the right serves as a good cheat sheet.
7 Day Itinerary
Day 1: Reykjavik > Vik, or Hörgsland Guesthouse (3h 5m & 256km)
Depending when your flight arrives you might hit the ground running, or have already spent a night in Reykjavik, or even Keflavik getting yourself ready for this adventure.
First stop – Groceries. One of the most popular and arguably cheapest Grocery stores is Bonus, with the sorta happy pink pig. Fun fact – most don’t open until 10am, some not until 11am…. so maybe second stop.
Then Seljalandsfoss – the only place in Iceland I had to pay for parking. Go figure. But I handed my ticket off to someone else who was just arriving, so I got some good Karma in return.
Next up is Seljavallalaug also known as the “hidden hot spring pool” – well, welcome to the internet, it’s not hidden anymore. The pool itself is covered in algae and to describe it as hot would be doing it a disservice, it was tepid at best. So skip the ‘hot spring’ but do the hike for what’s just a few more footsteps beyond it. The lush green moss going all the way to the snow line and cascading waterfalls in the distance was not what I expected at all – but well worth the hike (round trip the hike took me less than an hour) and fording a creek and a smaller stream.
Next stop is another hike (the hikes become less frequent the further you go North) this time to see Skogafoss. The hike is not to see the Falls, those you can see from the highway – the hike is the 370 steps up the side to reach the top and then along the river as far as you want to go.
After coming down those 370 steps give your knees a rest while you drive on to the Black Sand Beach at Vik – and try to find parking at Reynisfjara Beach.
I’m going to keep saying this – but I was there in early October, and the parking lot was packed. I can’t imagine how busy it must be in the height of summer. Thankfully the beach stretches for miles, so the people thin out, but trying to photograph the basalt columns without selfie takers and a wedding party (not even joking) was difficult. And this is one of the reasons I lost track of time.
Most of my photography does not feature people and I’m able to manage that by careful framing, being up at the crack of dawn, and being patient. There was none of that on the beach. One person would clear frame and another bus load would arrive.
Irregardless, I completely fell in love with the Black Sand (aka tiny pebbles). It’s magic. I could go all geography nerd on you, but I won’t – but the white waves crash against the black pebbles and disappear. I could have watched it for hours – actually I think I did.
But the best kept secret, which I almost skipped, is the beach on the other side of the basalt mountain.
Back in your car and onwards to Vik, and go to the Schwarzer Strand. Whereas the Reynisjara Beach had a full parking lot and tour buses, the parking lot at Schwarzer Strand was only for 5 cars and I was the second.
The sun was setting, the waves were crashing and I had the whole place to myself. Can you blame me for taking … 250 photos in 30 minutes?
From there it’s either finding a hotel in Vik, or putting in a few more miles to get to the Hörgsland Guesthouse.
Day 2: Hörgsland Guesthouse > Brunnhóll Country Guesthouse or Höfn (2h & 164km)
Hope you got some sleep – because it’s time for another hike. This time in Vatnajökull/Skaftafell National Park to see Svartifoss. The flora was unlike anything I’d seen thus far, it really was Autumn in Iceland.
The hike is 5km roundtrip, so 2-3 hours depending on your pace. If you cross the river and head up again, away from Svartifoss you come out of the trees and are surrounded by nothing but ground cover and rocks at an elevation of 310m. You can see all the way back to the ocean, and your car, parked at sea-level.
The next stops are any number of pull off to see the the Fjallsárlón Iceberg lagoon. There’s a big parking lot where you can take boat tours, but there are also countless other pull offs where you can walk right down to the lagoon.
Then you will reach my favourite place in all of Iceland – Diamond Beach. After seeing all the Icebergs floating in the Lagoon, you think, oh wow – but then they float down a river, under a bridge and hit the ocean. Then the small ones get tossed back on the beach and I would have stayed for hours.
Did you know Icebergs making cracking and popping sounds as they melt?
I didn’t! It was amazing. And there were crystal, diamond clear little bergs like the one shown in my photo, but then also big aqua ones like the one behind it being beaten by the surf, and then cloudy ones covered in the sand. And this was actually sand, unlike the other beaches I’d been to. Enjoy it, you have the time.
Day 3: Brunnhóll Country Guesthouse or Höfn > Tærgesen Guesthouse or Reyðarfjörður (3h 15m & 247km)
Sleep in – you’ve earned it with the hikes the past few days and today is a transit day. There are always small nameless waterfalls cascading down the side of mountains and little coves, but none of the big ticket tourist attractions.
Reyðarfjörður is a little port town – and a good chance to grab any groceries you might have discovered you’re missing. If you’re staying at the Tærgesen Guesthouse, try to get a room in the new Motel addition.
Day 4: Tærgesen Guesthouse or Reyðarfjörður > Myvatn (3h 55m & 261km)
If you Google the distance for today’s towns, you’ll come nowhere near almost 4 hours of driving time – but today is one of the biggest detours off highway 1 of the trip. It’s worth it, trust me.
Dettifoss is said to be the most powerful Waterfall in Europe, although I’m not entire just how that’s measured. You can access both sides of the falls, but unlike some where there’s a convenient bridge over the river, you sort of have to make the call before to turn off highway 1.
To reach the East side parking lot (which I did), you’ll turn on highway/road 864 and drive for 45 minutes (32km). As you can see it was snowing while I was there, so it took me a little longer and I didn’t really stick around for a prolonged visit to scamper over icy rocks for a better photos.
From what I can tell you can get closer to the falls from the West side, on highway/road 862 and it’s only a 20 minute drive (24km). But closer isn’t always better. Dettifoss is huge, and you need some distance to get perspective.
I had taken road 864 on the East side of the river in hopes of going further upstream to see Hafragilsfoss and Réttarfoss, but the weather ruled it out.
But as a bonus, I got a free exfoliating facial on my way to and from the car from the blowing snow and ice. Great moment to remind everyone to Layer! And always have rain jacket and pants on standby in Iceland.
Back on Highway 1 it’s onwards to Myvatn. On the way you’ll drive through an alien landscape with zero vegetation, bright, odd coloured rocks and futuristic metal pipping running all over the place. This is Hverir. A geothermal area with bubbling mud ponds and rotten egg smelling air. In the driving snow it didn’t seem like it was going to yield any amazing photos, so I opted to continue.
I did however stop at the Myvatn Nature Baths. This was before deciding whether I was going to pay the money to go the Blue Lagoon, so I thought this could be my chance.
It was still snowing and the temperature was hovering around freezing, so it’s hard to fault the Baths for being less than toasty warm. The lifeguards were in full survival suits.
Day 5: Myvatn > Akureyri (2h 55m & 165km)
As you leave Myvatn there are what I’ve seen described as pseudo craters… I have no idea what makes them pseudo and not really craters, but with the snow that had been falling night I didn’t really care what they were called. Firstly they were pretty and are surrounded by a lake, and secondly stopping there allowed the snow plows to hit the road ahead of me.
So hit up Skútustaðagígar on your way out of town and see some sheep.
Now you’re back on the road for and it’s time for another big ticket item: Goðafoss. The story behind the name is amazing – the quick version: in 1000AD Christianity was made the official religion of Iceland and as symbol of turning away from the Old Norse Gods (Thor, Odin, Loki and Freya) a Chieftain cast their idols into the Waterfall.
Goðafoss is viewable from highway 1 and has parking lots of both sides of the River. There’s even a pedestrian bridge to visit the other side.
From Goðafoss head up road 842 upstream along the river. This next one is 45 minute detour (one way for 43km) and unless you have a 4WD you’re going to be hiking some of it. After about 30 minutes there’s going to be a pullout and a sign telling you the road has changed from 842 to F26. And when you rented your car, if it wasn’t a 4WD they made you sign a piece of paper saying you could not go on F roads. So the hike from the pullout is about 6km (again, one way).
But at the end of the hike is Alderyjarfoss – which has got to be one the coolest waterfalls in all of Iceland. I mean, check out the geology. What is going on with the tops of those columns? And I had the whole place to myself – not a single other person in sight. No people trying to achieve death-by-selfie, no drones – no one.
From there it’s on to Akureyri – the Capital of the North, and the biggest town in Iceland after Reykjavik.
Day 6: Akureyri > Kirkjufellfoss or Grundrafjördur (5h 15m & 420km)
Buckle up, it’s a big travel day. It’s going to be beautiful, but not a lot of big ticket stops.
If you’ve read my Trips & Tricks for Driving in Iceland it was on highway 1 about 90 minutes from Akureyri when the Blizzard hit and the car behind me got forced off the road.
I was there in the first week of October and shortly after the Blizzard hit they closed one of the passes – so we all got to wait in our cars for about an hour for a snowplow and a tow truck to arrive.
If you enter today’s towns into Google Maps and ask for Directions – mine always takes you along the highway 1 until you get to the bottom of the Hrútafjödur (a fjord), and then takes you off and along what appears to be the Coast road. Don’t do it!
What Google doesn’t take into account is that the Coast road is mostly unpaved. And unless you’re fearless in an SUV you cannot do the speed limit on a gravel road – so it will take you longer than Google thinks.
The faster, but farther way, is to drive all the way to Borgarnes on highway 1, then turn West, and you’ll stat on paved roads the whole way and it will be faster and less bouncy all around.
The end goal is arriving at Kirkjufellsfoss in one piece. One of the reasons for cramming all that distance into one day, is so you can do something I wished I could have done… shoot the most iconic view in all of Iceland at sunset, or at night.
For it being arguably the most iconic view in all of Iceland, there are like 14 parking spots, so be prepared to park further along up the road if you have to and walk back.
You’ll notice the cloud cover my photo of Kirkjufellsfoss – if I could have waited I could have got clear sky. Later that night back in Borgarnes, which is where I spent the night, I was able to shoot the Northern Lights. Imagine how amazing it would have been to shoot the Northern Lights above Kirkjufell or even just the Milky Way.
Day 7: Kirkjufellfoss or Grundrafjördur > Reykjavik or Keflavik (2h 45m & 217km)
Hopefully you’ve managed to get some amazing photos – now it’s onwards to Reykjavik to buy any souvenirs you may have missed along the way.
My very last stop in Iceland was the Blue Lagoon. I had been going back and forth over whether I wanted to go, whether it was worth the money, and finally decided – Yes.
I went on to their site and found the later booking times were cheaper, because you have less time to enjoy your visit. But I didn’t plan on spending all day there anywhere, like a normal hot tub you shouldn’t spend more than an hour in it anyway. So for 40% less than the morning/afternoon bookings I booked into the last spot at night – 9pm.
Best decision ever! The Blue Lagoon at night is magical. The lighting is done incredibly well and with the steam rising off the water the whole place takes on this etherial feel. It’s also big enough that I could wander around and find I had a little area all to myself.
During the day there’s no escaping the occasional glimpse of the power plant that is the source of this not-so-natural wonder. But at night, the relatively few people and I were alone in this remarkable healing water with nothing but darkness surrounding us. A hot little oasis surrounded by cold darkness.
I would like to coin the term “Blue Lagoon Hair” – there’s a whole hair ritual they suggest, but I still left with hair so crusty that felt like I could have crunched it into a mohawk and it just would have stayed there.
If your flight home is in the morning I recommend staying out by Keflavik since it will only be a 5 minute drive in the morning.
And before I knew it I was at the airport flying away from this most remarkable little island – thinking, I’ll be back someday.
